Before I moved to Florida in 2001, I didn’t much care for seafood. Once here though, the availability of fresh fish and the bold, exciting spices many chefs use in their dishes quickly converted me. These days I find myself craving good seafood as much as I crave a juicy steak or a well-prepared pork tenderloin. So when McCormick & Schmick’s opened its doors to the public a few months ago, I was excited and couldn’t wait to try their dishes — dishes that most people from up North described as inventive, masterfully cooked and all together extremely enjoyable.
Because McCormick & Schmick’s takes pride in its seafood selection it’s only natural to find a section of the menu entirely dedicated to oysters. While most restaurants offer generic oysters on the half shell, here you can pick between six different types of raw oysters, ranging in origin from Washington to Connecticut. On a recent visit I ordered the small sampler ($12.95), which got me one each of the six different mollusk types: Blue Point from Westport, Conn.; Malapeque and Reach Island, both from Prince Edward Island, Canada; James River from Chesapeake Bay, Va.; and Chef Creek from British Columbia, Canada. Who knew that the small mollusk could change so much in shape and flavor depending on its origin? As the runner placed the dish in front of me I was immediately intrigued by the different sizes and shades of pearl grey that were showcased in front of me, but — unfortunately — he disappeared before I had the chance to ask him which one was which. I found out later — when our waitress cleared our dishes — as she pointed at the empty half shells and explained which ones were from the East Coast and which came from out West. The ones from the Eastern seaboard are generally more delicate and with each bite they provided a pleasant, mild brininess. I found myself liking less the ones from Washington and British Columbia, mostly because of their stronger fishy aroma. All of them — regardless of their origin — were extremely fresh and they were best enjoyed without Tabasco, with just a few drops of freshly squeezed lemon juice.
Other appetizers include Florida favorites such as conch fritters with honey mustard sauce ($8.95), halibut ceviche with avocado and wonton crisps ($10.95), coconut shrimp with fruit salsa and orange jam ($8.95) and the de rigueur seared yellowfin tuna with Asian cucumber salad ($11.95). My dining companion wanted something a little different and ordered the steamed littleneck clams ($9.95). It’s a rather small appetizer best enjoyed with McCormick & Schmick’s warm, fragrant bread. Clams are steamed in their shells and served in their own juices with garlic, white wine and herbs that are reminiscent of a light pesto. It’s a good dish and its only flaw was to contain one very muddy clam that didn’t look too appealing. Luckily it was the last one he picked from the bowl and our waitress, again, was very gracious and apologized profusively. McCormick & Schmick’s also offers a couple of soups, a roasted corn and seafood chowder and a crab bisque (both $4.55 for a cup, $5.55 for a bowl). The latter is a rich, decadent soup packed with crabmeat and heavy cream, served piping hot with oyster crackers on the side.
McCormick & Schmick’s approach to compiling their menu is a little different than most other restaurants’. Their a la carte items change on a daily basis, depending on what is fresh and in season. That means that what you see on the menu at the Naples location is unique and different from what they are serving at their other restaurants. It also means that, most likely, if you go back for dinner on a different week the menu will offer new and different dishes. For those who get easily bored with restaurant menus, this is definitely a plus. As I looked through their daily offerings it was impossible not to notice their preference for wild caught fare. We opted for two of their featured fishes: the wild Alaskan halibut and the yellowtail flounder from George Banks, Mass. My Kenai peninsula halibut ($28.95) was encrusted with herbs, seared, and served with spring vegetable succotash, mashed potatoes and a generous drizzle of white truffle oil. The fish was flaky in texture and delicate in taste — a little too delicate perhaps. It was good, but it was missing something — maybe a little salt and stronger, tastier herbs.
My dining companion’s flounder ($19.95) on the other hand, was simply delicious. Pan fried with a Parmesan cheese crust and served with a lemon and caper butter, it was tasty and rich — the Parmesan and the capers infusing it with just the right amount of saltiness. Along side Maine lobsters, Florida swordfish and Mexican grouper, McCormick & Schmick’s menu also offers 21-day-aged steaks, pasta and chicken selections for those who aren’t in the mood for seafood.
Although we were full and satisfied from our appetizers and entrees, we decided to share a slice of apple pie to top off our meal. It turned out to be a great idea: the crust was buttery and crumbly, the apples were pleasantly infused with cinnamon and the vanilla ice cream was melting over the warm piece of pie. I left the restaurant already thinking of what might be on the menu next time — some scallops perhaps, or maybe wild caught salmon. Surely it would be something fresh.
McCormick & Schmick’s
9114 Strada Place, Suite 12110, Naples
(239) 591-2299
Hours: Lunch served daily 11:30 a.m. to 3:15 p.m.; dinner served 3:30 to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 3:30 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 3:30 to 9 p.m. Sunday
Cuisine: Seafood
Beverages: A full bar — with a preference for designer martinis — and an extensive wine list with more than 30 wines available by the glass.
Service: Polite and professional
Atmosphere: refined and casually elegant
Prices: Appetizers range from $7.95 to $12.95, main courses are $11.95 to $32.95
Recommended dishes: small oyster sampler ($12.95), fried catfish ($12.95), featured wild seafood (market price).
Verdict: Fresh fish and a large menu make this restaurant a good spot for seafood lovers.
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