Let's Talk Food: Christmas was a culinary treat in Naples of yesteryear

As one travels throughout the Naples area during the holiday season, it is difficult to imagine what the Christmas holiday was like 50 years ago. Imagine, if you will, a tiny village of about 2,000 people, one traffic light, two churches, two schools, no condominiums, one theater, two grocery stores and few restaurants. Few developments existed; there was no Port Royal, Aqualane Shores, Royal Harbor or the Moorings.

I arrived in Naples on Oct. 1, 1952 when the population topped out a scarce 2,000 pioneering souls. My first Christmas in the then-tiny village was made memorable by the wonderful people who made up the town: stalwart, fascinating, highly individualistic and with a deep and abiding love for Naples and the surrounding area.

One of these individuals was William Schultz, the chef at the historic Naples Hotel. Chef Schultz had come to Naples in 1947 after presiding over the kitchen at the Useppa Island Club, owned by Barron Collier Sr.

While in Useppa, Bill Schultz learned about native Florida products and their use in developing his own culinary style. He brought this and more to the Naples Hotel and was beloved, not only by the guests at the hotel, but by the townspeople as well.

The Naples Hotel, razed in 1963, was located at the end of the Naples Pier on Second Street (Gordon Drive) between Broad and 13th avenues. The site now adjoins Tommy Bahama and provides a parking lot for Third Street merchants. The hotel opened in 1889, registering its first guest, Rose Cleveland, the president’s eccentric sister.

The hotel was built by Walter Haldeman, founder of the Louisville Courier-Journal. He is credited with the discovery of Naples in 1895 and through his newspaper and influential friends the secret of this newfound paradise soon attracted numerous winter visitors. To accommodate them, the Naples Hotel was built.

On Christmas afternoons during the 1950s, open house was held at the hotel. The entire town turned out for carol singing and a party for the staff in the Seminole Room.

I recall with much nostalgia the delicious eggnog prepared by Boz Reynolds, the bartender in the Seminole Room and later the manager of Club 41, one of the town’s earliest restaurants and bar. The buffet table was laden with tempting and delicious canapés and holiday treats.

Chef Schultz was busy in the kitchen preparing a 12-course holiday dinner that set us back $3.50, with children feasting for $1.75. Shrimp cocktail was a favorite appetizer along with fruit cup or a caviar canapé. Three soups were offered, followed by specially prepared pompano (probably caught off the Naples Pier).

The main courses consisted of filet mignon, baked ham, roast prime rib of beef, turkey or roast goose. Such fresh vegetables as silver onions in cream, almond sweet potatoes, Hubbard squash or buttered cauliflower accompanied all this.

Homemade rolls and the chef’s famed spoon bread were passed along with all sorts of relishes, cranberry sauce and a variety of cheeses. Then the sumptuous and rich desserts emerged: pumpkin, mincemeat, apple and pecan pies, several varieties of ice cream, holiday puddings, bowls of fruit and nuts and a selection of Christmas candies.

After-dinner mints were passed to the guests before they staggered off to their rooms or homes, stuffed and sated.

Just before the Naples Hotel was demolished in 1963 a sale was held for the ancient furnishings. I had spent many a happy hour in the hotel’s solarium and I was determined to buy several pieces of the antique wicker. They have served me well these many years and on Christmas Day I will spend a quiet hour in a rocker, recalling those halcyon days of Christmases past.

ASK DORIS

Question: I was born and brought up in Milwaukee and every Christmas Eve our family would have dinner at Mader’s. Although I enjoyed the great food, my favorite was their fabulous Black Forest Cherry Torte. This Christmas I want to surprise my family with this dessert but do not have a recipe. I hope you can help. -- Pamela Gershon / Estero

Answer: This dessert’s German name is Schwartzwalder Kirschtorte, and the best brandy to use for the flavoring is kirsch

Black Forest cherry torte

Ingredients

¾ cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup cocoa

¼ teaspoon salt

6 eggs, separated

1 teaspoon vanilla

1¼ cups sugar

½ teaspoon cream of tartar

Brandy glaze*

Whipped cream frosting*

Shaved milk chocolate

Maraschino cherries, well drained

Preparation

* Combine flour, cocoa and salt; sift together several times and set aside.

* In a small mixer bowl beat egg yolks and vanilla until thick and lemon colored. Gradually add ¾ cup of the sugar, continue beating until thick and light, about 6 minutes. Set aside.

* Wash the beater and in a large mixer bowl beat egg whites and cream of tartar until soft peaks form. Gradually add the remaining ½ cup of sugar, beating until sugar dissolves and stiff peaks form.

* Fold egg yolk mixture into egg white mixture. Sift flour mixture over egg mixture and fold in gently but thoroughly.

* Turn batter into 2 ungreased deep 9-inch round cake pans. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven about 25 minutes or until cake tests done.

* Invert pans on rack to cool. When completely cool, loosen sides and remove from pans. Meanwhile, prepare brandy glaze and brush over top of cake layers.

* Prepare whipped cream frosting and spread on both cake layers; stack, top sides up and frost the sides. Sprinkle with shaved chocolate and garnish with cherries.

* Chill well before serving by storing in refrigerator. Serves 12.

*Brandy glaze: In a small saucepan combine 1/3 cup sugar and 4 teaspoons water. Cook and sir over low heat until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and cool slight before adding 1/3 cup brandy or kirsch.

*Whipped cream frosting: Combine 2 cups whipping cream and ¼ cup powdered sugar. Chill well and beat until thick and light before adding 2 tablespoons brandy (kirsch).

Doris Reynolds is the author of “When Peacocks Were Roasted and Mullet Was Fried” and “Let’s Talk Food.” They are available for sale in the lobby of the Naples Daily News. Also available is a 4-part DVD, “A Walk Down Memory Lane with Doris Reynolds. For questions and comments regarding today’s column contact Doris Reynolds at foodlvr25@aol.com

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