This is a tale of two cities: Dublin, Ireland and Savannah, Ga. Today, on St. Patrick’s Day, each city is celebrating the birth of Ireland’s patron saint. And should St. Pat himself leave his heavenly home and appear in each city, he would have a totally different reaction.
St. Patrick was a deeply religious theologian and the country’s fifth-generation saint. He deeply loved animals and nature. The pagan Irish were astonished by his ability to communicate with even the most vicious beasts. His gentle nature, determination and charisma made his task of converting the pagans to Christianity a fait accompli. He convinced his followers that he had direct contact with God through nature, and they followed his teachings with reverence.
St. Patrick would vehemently disapprove of the ribald, undisciplined, rowdy carousing of those in Savannah. The holiday has become an excuse to eat, drink and make merry to excess. Many Savannahians leave town to avoid the mischief and rowdy behavior. There are parades, contests and all sorts of events that have been marred by drunken and rowdy celebrants.
Meanwhile, in Dublin, the Irish consider St. Patrick’s Day a solemn, religious holiday. Corned beef and cabbage are not traditional Irish fare; that came from the Irish immigrants who migrated to the United States during the Potato Famine of 1845, ’46 and ’47 and settled in neighborhoods with other European immigrants. Those from Eastern Europe introduced the Irish to corned beef and cabbage and they adopted it as their own. The dish was hearty, delicious and cheap.
In Ireland on this holiday the natives are enjoying traditional dishes such as colcannon, a simple dish made of potatoes and cabbage. Other dishes include lamb stew, Dublin coddle — a layered dish of sliced pork sausages, back bacon, sliced potatoes and onions — and lots of the marvelous seafood from the cold waters surrounded the sainted island.
Before the potato was brought to Ireland by Sir Walter Raleigh and going back to medieval times, the Irish lived mainly on milk and “corn,” which we know as cereals. Thriving herds of cattle, sheep and goats yielded rich milk to be drunk or turned into cheese. It has been centuries since bonnyclabber — thick, soured milk with cream and sweetener — was first introduced to the Irish diet and the “great daintie” of sour curds remains a staple at Irish tables.
Dairy products were so important in the Irish diet that few cattle were slaughtered. Sheep were raised chiefly for their wool rather than meat. The most popular meat was pork, fresh and smoked, and most of this meat came from wild pigs that roamed the oak forests since early Christian times. They were rounded up, fattened on acorns and slaughtered.
The great emerald moors produced abundant vegetables that grew wild and available to all for the picking. In modern times these essential vegetables are cultivated, but even today such vegetables as sorrel, leeks, watercress, parsnips, charlock (a variety of cabbage), carrots, garlic and onions grow wild throughout the countryside.
In the past few years Ireland has emerged as one of Europe’s most prosperous countries. With this prosperity has come a food renaissance and skilled chefs have introduced more continental food. All the while the Irish are demanding more sophisticated food and the talented chefs and cooks have developed recipes that retain the traditional ingredients while enhancing the flavor and taste.
For several years I have been sharing recipes for corn beef and cabbage, colcannon, lamb stew and other typically Irish dishes. These recipes are modern versions of Irish cuisine which are delicious additions to our American table.
Baked salmon with ginger
Ingredients
4 fillets of salmon (about 6 or 7 ounces each)
3 tablespoons fresh chopped ginger
1¼ cups medium/dry wine (I recommend Vermouth)
14 small sprigs fresh rosemary
4 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup fresh tomatoes (diced) or ½ cup canned
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Preparation
* Preheat oven to 475 degrees.
* Arrange the salmon, skinned and boned, in a lightly oiled roasting pan.
* Mix together the fresh ginger which has been peeled and finely chop, wine, 7 sprigs of rosemary, olive oil and pepper and pour over fish.
* Bake until firm to the touch (8 to 10 minutes).
* Remove salmon and keep warm.
* Add the remaining sprigs of rosemary, parsley and tomatoes to the liquid left in pan.
* Stir well, heat gently and pour over salmon.
* Serve with boiled potatoes and salad or vegetables.
Serves 4.
Beef braised in Guinness
This recipe goes back to the 19th century and has been updated to include Guinness beer (stout).
Ingredients
1½ pounds chuck or round steak, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 medium onions, chopped
6 carrots, peeled and sliced into finger-size slices
2 heaping tablespoons flour
2 tablespoon olive oil (not extra virgin)
2 teaspoons fresh basil, chopped
2/3 cup Guinness beer (stout)
2 tablespoon honey
1 cup beef stock
Salt and pepper to taste
Preparation
* Dip pieces of meat in flour seasoned with salt and pepper.
* Heat the oil in pan and add the floured beef pieces and cook until brown.
* Add onions, carrots, basil Guinness, honey and stock.
* Allow to come to a boil, turn down heat, cover and cook for 1½ to 2 hours.
Serves 6.
FROM DORIS' KITCHEN
A friend brought me a flat of the most gorgeous, scarlet strawberries, and I fixed several jars of strawberry preserves. The recipe is so simple and the results so tasty and delicious that I’d like to share it. I have used this concoction on ice cream, waffles, pancakes, toast and as a spread on cheese and crackers.
Strawberry preserves
Ingredients
2 quarts fresh, ripe strawberries
2½ pounds sugar
½ cup fresh lemon juice
Preparation
* Hull, wash and dry the strawberries, discarding any bruised ones.
* Place in a heavy sauce pan and cover with the sugar and allow to stand for 4 to 6 hours.
* Bring to a rolling boil and cook for exactly 7 minutes.
* Add the lemon juice.
* Bring to a rolling boil again and cook 2 minutes longer.
* Remove from the heat and cool in the same pan.
* Pour into sterilized jars and seal.
I kept my preserves in the refrigerator but if you want to keep them on shelves, after pouring into jars sterilize them in boiling water for 5 to 7 minutes.
Note: The recipe I used called for 4 pounds of sugar and I used only half. The result was a tangy, but still sweet preserves.
Makes 4 pints.
Doris Reynolds is the author of “When Peacocks Were Roasted and Mullet was Fried” and “Let’s Talk Food.” They are available for sale in the lobby of the Naples Daily News. Also available is a 4-part DVD, “A Walk Down Memory Lane with Doris Reynolds.” For comments and information regarding today’s column, contact Doris Reynolds at foodlvr25@aol.com
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