Let’s Talk Food: Rabbit repast roils readers of Times food page

To eat or not to eat…that is the question.

Is it nobler in mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous vegetarians or to feast with pleasure upon the flesh of a rabbit?

To kill or not to kill — that is another question.

Is it better to slaughter and consume cow or deer or lamb or chicken or pig or turkey or any other animal except that precious little bunny with soft, long ears and luminous eyes?

This is precisely the quandary that presented itself to the editors of the New York Times. It has been several weeks since the Times featured the killing, skinning and cooking of a rabbit on the front page of its food section. A tsunami of protests flooded the editorial offices, although a few rabbit-eaters were quick to defend the consumption of that beauteous bunny.

I was one of those advocating inclusion of rabbit in our diets since I consider myself somewhat of an expert on the cooking and consumption of rabbits.

Had it not been for a preponderance of wild rabbits in the mountains of Corsica I would have perished from hunger. It was in the remote village of Corte where my husband and I spent a week. A picturesque inn in the center of the town was our headquarters from whence we explored the forests and spent hours outside the headquarters of the Foreign Legion. We watched with great curiosity while the men marched in those picturesque uniforms. Any moment, surely Gary Cooper would appear, as he had in an old film, as a member of the Legion and in full uniform.

Since there were no 3-star restaurants in the remote village we arranged for the innkeeper to provide us with meals. He seemed delighted with the prospect of additional money but failed to explain that since it was off-season he had limited supplies.

After the third dinner we came to the realization that we were ingesting the same food — rabbit, rabbit and more rabbit. The vegetables were delicious; gathered wild in the woods or from an early garden. Rhubarb and wild strawberries provided a tasty dessert.

While I was perfectly satisfied to eat rabbit, my husband protested, and to save the day I took myself to the kitchen and offered my services as visiting cook. It was here I learned several ways to prepare the critter and also to deceive a recalcitrant husband. I even convinced him that the cassoulet we devoured was made with pork (I did manage to find a few sausages in the larder.)

Since then I have eaten rabbit with gusto and find it tasty, healthful, flavorful and have suffered no guilt or remorse, However, there is no way I could kill a rabbit (or any other creature). Times may fit all the news that’s fit to print but when it comes to killing a rabbit I pass.

Here at Easter time it is only natural that our thoughts turn to rabbits. They are everywhere, including St. George and the Dragon, where the entire place is swarming with rabbits (stuffed and carved, in all manner of costumes). And little wonder that the rabbit, throughout the ages, has been considered sacred.

The Egyptian tombs depict the rabbit as the determinative sign defining the concept of being. By a strange coincidence both the Egyptians and the American Algonquin Indians chose the Great Hare in their worship of the continuity of life. The Chinese also worshipped the rabbit. The second of the 12 emblems of the emperor of China, which represents the yin force in the life of the monarch, was a rabbit.

Throughout most of the world, the rabbit is prized among gourmets and gourmands. Here in the United States, where we are greatly influenced by appearances, the rabbit is safe as long as he or she retains that fluffy tails, those adorable floppy ears and a pair of innocent and engaging eyes.

Here are a couple of recipes that will entice you to run out with your gun in hand…on a hunt for a rabbit! Or for the meek and mild — some markets in the area have a supply of frozen rabbits.

Lapin saute chasseur (Sautéed rabbit hunter’s style)

Ingredients

1 rabbit abut 3½ to 4 pounds

½ cup all-purpose flour combined with salt and black pepper (for dusting)

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

2 medium onions, finely chopped

Garlic

1 teaspoon tomato paste

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

½ cup dry red wine

1 cup chicken stock

Bouquet garni (1 bay leaf, 4 sprigs tarragon, 4 sprigs parsley tied in cheesecloth)

Salt and fresh ground black pepper

1 cup mushrooms, sliced

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

Preparation

-- Cut the rabbit into small pieces and wash well in salted water. Dry well. Dust light with flour mixed with salt and pepper.

-- Heat olive oil and butter in a heavy pan. Brown the rabbit and allow to brown well. Remove from pan, set aside and add chopped onion and garlic. Cook for about 3 minutes; then add tomato paste and the 1 tablespoon flour.

-- When the mixture is smooth, pour in wine and chicken stock. Stir over low heat until the sauce comes to a boil. Return the pieces of rabbit to the pan along with the bouquet garni, salt and pepper. Sprinkle with parsley and serve with a hearty red wine and plenty of the best French bread you can find. Serves 4.

Rabbit in orange sauce, Brazilian style

Ingredients

2 2-pound rabbits cut into pieces

¼ cup flour

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoon olive oil

½ pound mushrooms, chopped

1 cup chopped green peppers

1½ cups orange juice

4 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoon grated orange juice

1 cup chicken broth

Preparation

-- Wash and dry the pieces of rabbit and roll in a mixture of flour, salt and pepper.

-- Heat oil in Dutch oven or heavy casserole. Brown the rabbit pieces; pour off the fat and add the mushrooms and green peppers and cook for 5 minutes.

-- Add the orange juice, lemon juice, orange rind and chicken broth. Cover and cook over low heat for 1 to 2 hours or until tender. Taste and adjust seasonings. Serves 6 to 8.

Ask Doris

Q: My elderly father is coming to spend a month with us. When I was a child my grandmother would fix his favorite soup, which was mostly milk with some kind of noodles in it. I would like to surprise him with this dish but have no idea what it is called and how it can be fixed. Please help me find a recipe.

— Corinne Lubitov, Bonita Springs

A: This request really intrigued me and I had a good time researching. I finally found this in an old German cookbook put out by an organization in Milwaukee. I hope this is the recipe you requested.

Melksnysels (Milk soup with noodles)

Ingredients

1½ cups sifted all-purpose flour

¼ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon baking powder

2 quarts whole milk

3 eggs, separated

¼ teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon cinnamon

Preparation

-- Sift 1 cup of the flour, salt and baking powder into a bowl. Gradually add about ½ cup of the milk, using just enough to make stiff dough. Knead until the dough is elastic and smooth. Roll out as thin as possible on a lightly floured surface. Allow to stand for 15 minutes. Sprinkle with the remaining flour, and roll up lightly similar to a jelly roll. Cut evenly into ¼-inch slices.

-- Bring the remaining milk to an active boil in a deep, heavy saucepan. Drop the noodle ribbons into it and cook until they come to the top. Drain, reserving the milk, and keep noodles warm.

-- Beat the egg yolks, sugar and cinnamon in a bowl. Gradually add 1 cup of the hot milk, beating constantly to prevent curdling. Return to the balance of the milk, stirring constantly. Heat but do not allow to boil. Beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry. Pour the milk mixture over them, mixing gently.

-- Place the noodles in bowls or soup plates and pour the custard mixture over them. Serve hot. Serves 8 to 10.

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Doris Reynolds is the author of “When Peacocks Were Roasted and Mullet Was Fried” and “Let’s Talk Food.” They are available for sale in the lobby of the Naples Daily News. For comments and questions regarding today’s column, contact Doris Reynolds at foodlvr25@aol.com.

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