Let’s Talk Food: Rooting for the hot and lively horseradish

Food addicts are nothing new. We all know chocoholics who can't live without the rich and hypnotic sweet. And of course there was the Lemon Drop Kid, who scarfed down those succulent suckers by the zillion. There are those with a passion for Oreo cookies, cola drinks and praline ice cream. Some want endless pizzas, root beer floats, Snicker bars and roasted peanuts by the ton. And who's to blame them. All of these foods are delicious and understandably addictive. But it's difficult to imagine a horseradish fanatic!

I could hardly believe it when I heard about Judy McCann, the Root Queen of Collinsville, Ill. Alex Haley may have made history with his memoir, "Roots" but Ms. McCann is making culinary history with her interest in the fiery horseradish root.

Collinsville and the surrounding countryside, produce about 85 percent of the total horseradish crop in the world. At the turn of the century, during our country's greatest influx of immigrants, there was an enormous change in the eating habits of all Americans. With the great migration came foods from Eastern Europe, Italy, Ireland and the Netherlands. And since most of the immigrants came from the Eastern European countries the impact of their food habits is still felt.

When these immigrants arrived, they found that many of the essentials in their diets were not available in their new homeland. One of these products was horseradish. This pungent root was important part of Eastern European cuisine and was originally grown there. Many German immigrants settled in Collinsville, which is just across the Mississippi River from St. Louis. The area was rich in minerals and there were several mines in operation. However, the Germans found that the rich bottomland produced generous horseradishes thus meeting the demand for the relish used by Eastern Europeans.

Horseradishes have been grown in Collinsville for more than 100 years. John, Louis and William Keller are direct descendants of those original growers and a couple of years ago the brothers celebrated their centennial as one of the pioneers in growing of horseradishes.

Horseradish is the first cousin to mustard and has a colorful history.

Centuries ago, it was claimed that horseradish would stimulate the appetite, relieve colic, eliminate worms and, yes, act as an aphrodisiac. It’s the bitter herb placed with other symbolic foods at the Seder table at the beginning of Passover. For Polish Catholics, it’s a tradition to take horseradish to church on Easter to have it blessed. And leave it to Henry J. Heinz to be the first American to grind horseradish for profit when he added it to his catsup.

Although there are tons of horseradishes grown in Collinsville, there is only one processor. J. R. Kelly makes various sauces and relishes from the root. The remaining horseradishes head East; many to Hempstead, Long Island, where Gold's Pure Food Products is located. Gold's is one of the world's largest producers and distributor of horseradish. At Gold's, 50 tons of horseradishes are processed a week. There is a specially cooled root cellar where the bulbs are stored. They have a rough, thin, light brown and white flesh that when sliced or grated releases a pungent oil.

Also claiming to be the country’s largest producers of horseradish is Silver Springs Foods, founded more than 80 years ago and remains in the same family that founded it.

Horseradish is seldom cooked. It is mainly a condiment for those with a passion for hot and lively. There are those who maintain that this hearty condiment makes roast beef more luscious, those hedonistic pastrami sandwiches heavenly, a Reuben sandwich irresistible and corn beef and cabbage, food for the gods.

Judy McCann is so devoted to the homely root that she has organized the International Horseradish Festival, which is held in Collinsville every June. It's worth the trip to see the two-story-tall balloon in the shape of a giant horseradish floating over the town. And if your sinuses need clearing, the festival is the place for you. After sampling all manner of foods containing horseradish, your head will be as clear as those billowing clouds that float about on a sunny day. There's everything from pizza to ice cream embellished with horseradish.

Sports fans can satisfy themselves by participating in the Root Olympics with such games as root golf, root toss and root volleyball (don't forget your helmets and suits of armor.) I'm looking forward to the horseradish-eating contest when shredded radishes are piled high on frankfurters. The last survivor of this orgy is still taking Pepto-Bismol but continues to declare that he'll be back every year for more of the same.

In my book, “Let’s Talk Food,” I tell the story of the Gold brothers, whose father and mother, Hyman and Tillie started the first horseradish processing plant back in 1932. Back then, the Golds held forth in Brooklyn but have since moved their operation to Long Island. There are four Gold brothers, the third generation to commercially make horseradish products. Here are their suggestions:

Steve Gold: "Egg salad is delicious when enhanced with horseradish, a little bit of olive oil and lots of onions, but no mayo."

Morris Gold: "My wife, Norma, serves everything with horseradish — brisket of beef, gefilte fish, on matzo or combined with sour cream and served on a baked potato."

Marc Gold: "I like horseradish in tomato juice; other times I add it to a bloody Mary."

Howard Gold: "I add it to chopped vegetables when I make an omelet and also mixed into a tuna fish salad."

There are lots of other uses for horseradish, which adds a zing to the most mundane dishes. Francis Stuckens, chef at the Hyatt Regency in Beaver Creek, Colo., dreamed up a delicious mashed potato concoction that is superb with steak or fried chicken.

Horseradish Mashed Potatoes

2-1/2 pounds red skinned potatoes

¼ pound sweet butter

1 pint heavy cream, heated

½ cup grated horseradish

Boil potatoes in salted water until soft, then drain. With a potato masher or heavy duty electric mixer mash the hot potatoes until they are as lumpy or as smooth as you like, leaving the skins on. Add butter and cream and blend well. Fold in horseradish and add salt and pepper to taste. Serves 6 to 8.

Ask Doris

Q: My husband and I both adore anchovies, and practically the only recipe I have is for Caesar salad. Recently, we were at a convention in San Francisco and were served an anchovy pie at a cocktail reception. No one there had any idea what the recipe was. I’m appealing to you to help me prepare this delicious treat.

— Jane Hurd, Marco Island

A: It took some doing, but here ‘tis:

Anchovy Pie

2 medium onions, sliced very thin

3 tablespoons butter (divided)

3 medium potatoes, peeled and grated

18 anchovy filets

4 ounces ripe olives, sliced

Pepper to taste

1 cup heavy cream

Sauté the onions in 2 tablespoons butter until light brown. In a greased pie pan, arrange thin layer of potatoes, then the onions, the anchovies, the olives, then a final layer of potatoes. Dot with 1 tablespoon butter and sprinkle pepper over top. Bake in a preheated oven at 300 degrees for 55 minutes. After the first 10 minutes, pour ½ cup of the cream over the top. Ten minutes later, pour on the rest. Remove from oven and allow to rest for about 10 to 15 minutes before slicing and serving. May be served warm or at room temperature.

Doris Reynolds is the author of “When Peacocks Were Roasted and Mullet was Fried” and “Let’s Talk Food.” They are available for sale in the lobby of the Naples Daily News. Also available is as 4-part DVD, “A Walk Down Memory Lane with Doris Reynolds.” Contact Doris Reynolds at foodlvr25@aol.com.

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