Let’s Talk Food: Grits now evident on more menus

It was bound to happen. After decades of being ignored by Yankee chefs, grits are now making an ap­pearance on snooty menus throughout the Big Apple and other sophisticated cen­ters. Meanwhile, throughout the coun­try, epi­cureans who once ridiculed grits are now scarf­ing them down with pleasure and relish.

Right here in Naples, master chef Tony Ridgway has included grits on the menu at Ridg­way’s, in the heart of Old Naples. Admittedly, these grits have been fancied up but still remain as a whole­some, delicious and soul­-satisfying dish.

On Sundays, patrons are treated to grits cakes: ap­petizing rounds of a com­bination of grits, cheese, kernels of corn and bits of ham artfully combined and turned into crisp rounds of deliciousness. Accompanied by smoky bacon and eggs over lightly, it is a brunch dish created for the most fastidious gourmand.

This dish inspired me to retreat to my kitchen and create my own original grits dishes. Granted, I had the expert help of noted food writer James Villas. The recipes are below.

It is not easy to love and accept anything called grits. In truth, they are a close cousin of polenta, which is also ground cornmeal. As far as I can tell, the term is an outgrowth of the Ger­man term “Grutz,” which in turn derived from the Ital­ian term “Gruzzi,” which means crushed or coarsely ground corn. Another source claims that the word origi­nates from a Middle English word grytt, meaning bran. Had I been at the naming ceremony, I would have sug­gested “amazing maize.”

Grits have long been the subject of ridicule and scorn. I never mentioned grits north of Virginia. Talk­ing about grits in New York City brought forth gales of laughter and comments about this ignorant hillbilly who consumed the humblest of food.

And who can forget Flo, the gum-chewing waitress at Mel’s Diner and her favorite catchphrase: “Kiss my grits.” Kid Rock showed his respect and appreciation of grits when he titled his debut al­bum, “Grits Sandwiches for Breakfast.”

Little Milton (James Mil­ton Campbell Jr.) owes much of his success as a blues and soul singer when he came up with “Grits Ain’t Groceries.” The song states, “If I don’t love you baby, grits ain’t gro­ceries, eggs ain’t poultry and Mona Lisa was a man.”

Usually, grits are served with just a pat of butter, but genuine Southerners claim that a slice of fried, coun­try- cured ham, served with grits and red-eye gravy is the haute cuisine of the uni­verse.

Other foods notably suited to grits are sautéed chicken livers, calf’s liver, braised wild birds and other game; and a Louisiana specialty known as grillades, a savory braised meat dish.

Grits have made their mark as an ant eradicator. Southern housewives sprin­kled grits around ant beds, convinced the ants would eat them and explode. However, reputable scientists proved this method erroneous, so don’t waste your grits.

Although I cannot claim to be a Southern magnolia blossom by birth; I claim my soul and taste buds are as Southern as Jimmy Carter. James Villas is another son of the South. He has written several cookbooks, includ­ing “The Glory of Southern Cooking (Willey Publishers; $34.95). These appetizing recipes will help you be­come a genuine Southern

Grits with red-eye gravy

For the grits:

Ingredients

1 cup milk

1 cup water

½ teaspoon salt or to taste

½ cup regular grits

Preparation

■ Combine the milk, water and salt in a heavy saucepan and bring to a boil. Gradually add the grits, stirring; and cook, stirring constantly until thick and creamy, about 15 to 20 minutes.

For the gravy:

Ingredients

2 strips bacon

8 ounces country ham, cut into bits

1 scallion (part of green top included), minced

1 teaspoon dried sage, crumbled

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

½ cup brewed strong coffee

½ cup water

Preparation

■ Fry the bacon in a skillet over moderate heat until crisp, drain on paper towels and crumble.

■ Add the ham to the skillet with the bacon grease and cook, stirring, until slightly browned, about 5 minutes.

■ Add the scallion, sage, pepper and stir for about a minute.

■ Sprinkle the flour over the top and cook, stirring, until nicely browned, about 2 minutes.

■ Add the coffee and water, cook, stirring until the gravy is thick, about 2 minutes. Keep warm.

To serve, spoon a mound of grits on each serving plate, spoon equal amounts of the gravy over the top and sprinkle each serving with crumbled bacon. Makes 4 servings.

Paula’s tomato grits

Y’all listen up. This here recipe comes from Paula Deen, and if you’re too lazy to cook ‘em yourself, head for her restaurant in Savan­nah. At Lady & Sons this dish is featured on the buffet.

Ingredients

2 cups water

1½ cups milk

1 teaspoon salt or to taste

1 cup quick-cooking grits

9 tablespoons butter (1 stick plus 1 tablespoon)

2 scallions (white part only) thinly sliced

¼ teaspoon garlic powder

2½ cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese

1 10-ounce can diced tomatoes and green chilies, drained

Preparation

■ Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

■ In a large saucepan, combine the water, milk and salt and bring to a boil.

■ Gradually add the grits and stir constantly for a minute.

■ Reduce heat to moderately low, cover and cook 3 minutes.

■ Add 8 tablespoons of the butter, stir until melted, cover and cook until the grits are thick and creamy, about 4 minutes.

■ Remove the pan from heat.

■ In a small skillet, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter over moderate heat, add the scallions and stir until softened, about 1 minute.

■ Add the scallions to the grits along with the garlic powder add 1½ cups of the cheese and stir until the cheese melts.

■ Add the tomatoes and chilies, stir until well blended, scrape the mixture into a shallow buttered 2-quart baking dish and bake for 30 minutes.

■ Sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top and continue baking until golden brown, about 10 minutes.

Serve piping hot. Serves 6 to 8.

Gullah shrimp and grits casserole

The Gullah House Restaurant on St. Helena Island, S.C., specializes in this authentic Gullah dish. For another, genteel, culinary approach, a shrimp and grits recipe from Jack Fry’s Restaurant in Louisville, Ky., appeared in this newspaper May 4.

Ingredients

1½ pounds fresh medium shrimp

3½ cups water

½ teaspoon salt or to taste

1 cup regular grits

¼ cup milk

2 large eggs

2 garlic cloves, minced, or more if you like

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1½ cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese

Preparation

■ Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

■ Place the shrimp in a large saucepan with enough water to cover, bring to a boil, remove from heat and allow to stand 3 minutes.

■ When cool enough to handle, peel and de-vein the shrimp and set aside.

■ In another large saucepan, combine the water and salt and bring to a boil. Gradually add the grits, stirring, reduce the heat to low, cover, cook 10 minutes and remove from heat.

■ In a bowl, whisk together the milk and eggs and gradually stir them into the grits.

■ Add the shrimp, garlic, salt and pepper, 1 cup of cheese and blend well.

■ Scrape the mixture into a buttered 2-quart casserole or baking dish, evenly sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top, and bake until golden brown.

Ask Doris

Q: We have a house in a small town in Arkansas and go frequently. I usually buy crème fraiche at the supermarket here in Naples but am unable to buy it when we go up to our summer place. Someone told me that you had an easy recipe and I hope you will share it with me.

— Grace Timmons, Naples

A: Here are two ways to make crème fraiche and it also will save some money.

Crème fraiche

Ingredients

1 cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon buttermilk

Preparation

■ Combine and heat gently for a temperature not to exceed 85 degrees.

■ Remove the saucepan from the heat and allow to stand at a temperature of between 65 and 85 degrees until thickened.

■ Stir with a wooden spoon and refrigerate.

Crème fraiche

The above is the classic recipe for crème fraiche. A satisfactory substitute may be made by combining ½ pint heavy cream with 1 tablespoon plain yogurt. Shake the mixture in a tightly closed jar and wrap in a dish towel. Leave in a warm but not too hot place overnight. This version tastes like a good quality sour cream.

Doris Reynolds is the author of “When Peacocks Were Roasted and Mullet was Fried” and “Let’s Talk Food.” They are available for sale in the lobby of the Naples Daily News. Also available is a four-part DVD, “A Walk Down Memory Lane with Doris Reynolds.” Contact Doris Reynolds at foodlv425@aol.com.

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